Matcha

China

During the Tang dynasty (618–907), tea in China was steamed and compressed into bricks for storage and trade. As described in The Classic of Tea by Lu Yu (760–762), preparation involved roasting and grinding the tea, then boiling it in water with salt until it foamed. Additional ingredients like green onions, ginger, jujubes, mandarin peel, and mint were sometimes added, creating a savory, spiced beverage.

Japan

Tea was introduced to Japan in the 9th century by the monk Eichū, who brought it from China and served it to Emperor Saga in 815. The tea, likely a Chinese-style compressed tea, was boiled rather than steeped. Inspired by this, Emperor Saga ordered tea plantations to be established in the Kinki region in 816, though tea’s popularity declined shortly afterward.

Powdered vs Compressed Tea

Photo of nian

During the Song dynasty (960–1279), powdered tea became popular in China. Steamed and dried tea leaves were ground with a niǎn and whisked with hot water, creating a frothy drink similar to modern matcha. Though the term "matcha" wasn’t used yet, this method likely began by the 11th century. Key texts like Record of Tea by Cai Xiang and Treatise on Tea by Emperor Huizong described this preparation using high-quality compressed teas like Dragon and Phoenix Lump Tea. Tea powder was sifted and whisked in bowls, with finer powder creating floating foam and coarser powder sinking.

Some versions of imperial tea included additives like borneol or fat for appearance and aroma, though these were criticized for masking the tea’s natural scent. White tea color was ideal at the time, achieved through special processing techniques. Song tea practices later influenced Japanese temple tea traditions at places like Kennin-ji and Engaku-ji.

Decline of Compressed Tea Popularity

Ming Emperor Photo

During the Song dynasty, producing lump tea was a complex, expensive process requiring skilled labor, making it accessible only to the elite. The traditional bitter-sweet flavor of Tang-era tea gave way to a new preference for aroma, sweetness, and smoothness. As lump tea became more refined and costly, its popularity declined. In 1391, Ming emperor Zhu Yuanzhang banned compressed tea, shifting Chinese tea culture toward the simpler practice of steeping loose leaves—still common today. Early in the Ming dynasty, regional teas were still presented to the emperor, as noted in Unofficial Gleanings of the Wanli Era.